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I completely shut off my heat when it was
-11 degrees Fahrenheit outside for an entire 24 hours

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in order to prove a point:

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my home’s heating system, a furnace which was installed and
specced for the structure by professioanls in the HVAC industry,

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is way too big for my home!

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Why did it get installed?

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I can only speculate, but it means that my
current heating system absolutely should not be considered as any kind of baseline

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when it comes time to replace it.

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And many of you are probably in that same boat.

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If you are looking to make a change to your
home’s heating and cooling system,

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especially if that change is moving
from one heating technology to another,

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it pays to find out what heating and cooling capacity
you actually need for your home.

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And the good news is that it’s not that hard anymore.

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Before we get to that, though, this is a tweaked
and condensed version of a longer video on my main channel.

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If you’d like some additional context and plenty more runtime

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you can check that out there or through the link in the description.

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And I’d like to begin this version

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by letting you in on a secret the industry doesn’t want you to know.

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I’m not really joking, despite the cliche.

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Here goes:

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those fancy heat pumps they keep talking about on the news?

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Well it turns out, those heat pumps …

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ARE JUST AIR CONDITIONERS!

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That’s all they are.

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They’re just air conditioners equipped with an extra valve 
which allows them to operate in reverse to produce heating in addition to cooling.

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That's all that a heat pump is!

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Everyone in the HVAC industry knows this,
at least I sure hope they do,

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but because heat pumps are hyped up right now
and people are interested in them,

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in areas where they haven't been common they are often painted as fancier and more exotic machines than they really are.

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The only truly new things on the scene are
cold-climate heat pumps which operate efficiently even in very cold weather,

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but those just have little tweaks to the underlying technology

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and are not fundamentally different from the commodity equipment
that’s been getting installed the world over for decades.

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So watch out for price gouging - it’s rampant right now.

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And for reference, poke around on HVAC wholesale sites
to get an idea of how much more a heat pump system should cost

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compared to a new furnace and air conditioner.

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You’ll quickly find out it’s not much at all.

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If you already have an air conditioner and furnace,

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the most expensive and frankly only different task when installing a heat pump
is running a new circuit for backup resistive heating.

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And that’s not always even necessary anymore
depending on your local climate or your backup heat source.

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There’s a lot of nuance here which I’m skipping over for time,

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but bottom line, $20,000 quotes to install a heat pump
are ridiculous outside weird circumstances.

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But this video isn’t so much about price gouging,

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it’s about figuring out how much of a heat pump
(or other heating system) you actually need.

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I live in a fairly new townhome in the Chicago area.

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Because it was built to recent codes and I'm
sharing walls with neighbors, it’s pretty energy efficient.

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Yet whoever specced its heating system was apparently not given the memo!

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It’s been equipped with a bog-standard
60,000 BTU/hr furnace and 2-ton air conditioner.

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The air conditioner, miraculously, is actually close to right-on-the-money.

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But the furnace is way too effin' big!

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It is barely running even in extreme cold.

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How do I know that?

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Eyes and ears are pretty helpful here but even more helpful
is the fact that I have a smart thermostat.

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Since I have a simple singe-stage heating system which is only ever heating
at its full output or not heating at all,

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a log of how much time it spent heating in a day could be used to determine
how much heating output it actually produced that day.

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And wouldn’t ya know it, the smart thermostat
logs what it tells the furnace to do over the course of a day

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and my user account retains that data for well over a year.

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So with a quick look in my thermostat’s app

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(but not the Nest app, the Google Home app… don’t get me started)

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I can look back in time to see what it did on any particular day.

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So let’s do that.

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Here’s what a typical winter day looks like weather-wise:

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January 5th was a cloudy day with the temperature hovering 
right around freezing point.

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With essentially no help from the sun,
my furnace was providing the only heat to keep the house warm

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and it needed to run for 3 hours and 10 minutes total.

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That right there makes it obvious the furnace
is much bigger than it needs to be,

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but this is Chicago.

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It gets a lot colder than just freezing.

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Like two Christmases ago.

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December 23rd 2022 started out at a balmy -8 degrees 
(which is -22 for those who speak Metric).

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Despite it being that frigid, though,

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the furnace only ran for 6 hours total.

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6 hours of 24 in the day is only 25%

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(or 1/4th for those of you that speak fractions).

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Running only a quarter of the time in weather like that
suggests the furnace is in fact four times larger than it needs to be.

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Now, I wasn’t home that day.

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That’s good in that there weren’t any other sources of heat like cooking appliances or hot water usage to skew the data,

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but it’s bad in that the set point was only 62 degrees
and not what I normally keep it at.

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Since it can get a bit colder than -8 degrees ‘round these parts

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and since normally I keep it a little warmer when I’m at home,

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I’ll go ahead and fudge that and say my furnace is 3 times oversized.

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Since my current system produces 60,000 BTU/hr,

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then apparently I only really need 20,000 BTU/hr of heating available.

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Which, in heat pump speak, is not even two tons.

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That’s pretty wild.

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If that’s true, then I actually need about
the same heating output in the dead of winter

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as I need cooling output in the hottest parts of summer.

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Which, admittedly, feels kinda wrong.

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In the winter, I have to fight an 80 or 85 degree
temperature differential in those arctic blasts

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but we rarely ever crack 100 degrees in the summer
and most of the time we are only fighting a 15 or 20 degree differential.

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But, well, the data doesn’t lie.

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However, there are some reasons to be cautious.

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Firstly, while my furnace is rated for 60,000 BTU per hour,

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that’s actually it’s input rating - it only releases 92 percent of
the heat energy in the gas it’s burning into my home

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(the rest is wasted in the exhaust),

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so in reality it’s output is slightly less.

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But that’s presuming it’s working correctly,
which I don’t have a way to confirm.

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It could be outputting more heat than it’s designed to.

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There are also two other minor sources of
data fuzziness which reduce the accuracy of a data-logging thermostat.

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The raw energy content of natural gas varies somewhat from day to day,

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so even if I knew for a fact that my furnace were operating perfectly,
its actual heat output won’t be quite consistent.

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Also, the thermostat logs how long it calls for heat,

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but at every start-up, there’s actually a delay
while the furnace goes through its ignition sequence

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so the thermostat is slightly overreporting total energy output.

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Now, to be clear, these little sources of error are little and unlikely to amount to much,
plus two of them work in my favor anyway.

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But it does mean that my 20,000 BTU/hr conclusion probably isn’t perfect,

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especially because I fudged it a bit to account for not being home.

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I still know my furnace is wildly oversized no matter what,

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but I wanted to know exactly what sort of heat I needed in extreme weather.

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And I knew a trick to find out:

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Just get a bunch of space heaters.

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See, since heat is heat

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you can convert between units as much as you like.

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20,000 BTU/hr is equivalent to 5.86 kW.

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And an ordinary space heater like this can pump out 1.5 kW.

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So assuming my thermostat data and math are correct,

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simply running four space heaters on high
(which would produce 6 kilowatts of heat)

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should actually provide more than enough heat to keep my home warm
even in the most extreme weather we ever get.

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So…

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I thought, why not just wait for some extreme weather

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and then try that and see if it works?

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So I did!

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But - I used more than four heaters.

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And the setup was rather involved.

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And pretty risky.

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So first let me just say, don’t try this yourself.

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I took a number of big risks designing and performing this test.

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I could have ended up with frozen pipes if I wasn’t careful,

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and I put myself at risk of a fire using the space heaters,
particularly because getting enough heat distributed in enough places

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required the use of extension cords, splitters, power strips, and even

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Christmas lights.

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Yeah.

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To save on time I’m not going into all the
considerations I had to make for the test -

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you can check out the main channel video if you want more of those details.

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But the bottom line was I had about 6,500 watts of resistive heat
distributed throughout my home.

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The heat sources were powered through digital temperature controllers
so I could properly maintain a consistent temperature with them,

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and they were all metered through energy monitors
so I could total up how much energy was actually used during the test.

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I set up each temperature controller to maintain the same temperature band

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that my furnace normally does in each room
when set to 69 degrees,

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and with the setup finalized and in-place,
all that was left to do now was reset the energy monitors,

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turn on all those heaters,

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and shut off the furnace.

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So that’s what I did.

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The test began at 8 AM on January 14th when the outside temperature was -11°F 
(or -24 Celsius).

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With the furnace disabled, the heaters would have to hold their own.

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Before long the temperature controllers had
switched them all on but then -

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they all started going off.

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This meant that the heaters were sufficient
to raise the indoor temperature

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despite it being 80 degrees colder outside than inside.

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So clearly, that 6.5kW of heat on tap was more than enough.

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And 24 hours later, the heaters had used a grand total of 110.76 kWh,

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representing an average power draw of only
4.61 kW or 15,729 BTU/hr.

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Now, the whole 24 hour span included some sources of noise.

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For one, it was a bright sunny day during the test
so the sun was helping to heat my home a bit,

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and I did prepare food which added some heat not accounted for by the meters.

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However, I was taking readings from all of the meters every four hours,

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and between 8PM (long after I made dinner and the sun had set)
and 8AM the next day (just after sunrise),

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the heaters used 61.38 kWh

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representing a continuous draw of 5.115 kW, or 17,452 BTU/hr.

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The outdoor temperature during that period
was fluctuating between -9 and -11 degrees,

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which is just a teensy bit warmer than the coldest temps we typically experience.

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So - there we go.

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That’s the number.

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17,452 BTU/hr is the actual heating load of my home
when it’s -10 outside and about 70 inside.

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Which means that sure enough, my furnace is triple oversized.

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Actually a bit more than that.

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For me and my home, this is excellent news!

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Because I’m in a townhome which was built
assuming everything that could be gas would be gas,

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I only have 100A electrical service which is limiting.

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But even using resistive heat, as I did in the test,
I only need just a hair over 5 kW to stay warm which is only a 20A electrical load.

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A heat pump will use even less power so long
as it can operate with a coefficient of performance above 1,

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which these cold climate heat pumps can do well into negative temperatures.

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So when it comes time to replace my furnace,
a 2-ton heat pump (which can normally produce 24,000 BTU/hr or 7 kW of heat)

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will be just fine and 5kW of backup heat strips will be
more than enough to supplement the heat pump when required

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or even function as my only heat source in an emergency.

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But my experiment, although it was extremely valuable,

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was also absurd.

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It is not a thing anybody should do and the good news is - nobody has to!

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You might find this hard to believe, but those scientists?

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The've figured out the thermal properties of the materials we use to build our homes!

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Insulation has an R-value which tells you its resistance to heat transfer.

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Windows have R-values, too - plus low-e coatings on the glass
help reduce solar heating in the summer and reduce radiant losses in the winter.

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The materials on the exterior of the home have an influence, too -

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and we know all this information.

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To tie it all together into something useful,

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there are these tools out there called measuring tapes
which allow us to gauge the size of walls and windows.

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If you actually take the time to assess these variables,

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you can perform a load calculation which will tell you how much heating (and cooling) your home actually needs depending on how it was built.

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Now, I am not here to show you how to do one.

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It’s not that complicated - you’re essentially just finding
the total area of your home’s exterior surfaces

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(taking note of window and door dimensions, too),

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then plugging that information
along with their R-values into a spreadsheet

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(and don’t forget to count the ceiling and floors, too).

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But it is pretty tedious.

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Still, for grins and giggles, I did one for my home.

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I used on online Manual J calculator

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(manual-J is essentially the industry standard for how to do a block load calculation)

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and after inputting all my measurements, it told me that I would need…

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19,000 BTU/hr of heating with an outdoor temperature
of -15 and an indoor setpoint of 70 degrees.

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That’s within spitting distance of what my experiment just showed,

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and since it was a little warmer during the test than -15,
coming in a tad higher than my experiment makes perfect sense.

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So rest assured those calculations do, indeed, work.

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If someone had actually done that calculation
(and believed its results)

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they would never have put a 60,000 BTU/hr furnace in my home.

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That's just way more than my home needs.

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But I can feel your trepidation coming through the screen -

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why would I conclude that having just enough heat would be… enough?

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Well, enough is by definition enough.

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When a heating system is properly sized to a given home,

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then when the weather outside gets frightful, the heating system
will need to run nonstop, and that is actually normal.

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There’s a concept called design temperature which is important here.

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Where I live, -15 outside is about the coldest we ever experience.

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And 70 degrees inside is the warmest I’d
ever need my primary heating system to keep the house.

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Those are my design temperatures:
the absolute worst conditions a heating system should expect to fight,

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and they only show up once or twice a year - if that.

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There isn’t actually a need to have any more heat capacity available
than what the design temperatures dictate -

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especially when, even if the weather happens to dip below the design temp,

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a wide variety of simple supplemental heat sources,

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such as all those space heaters I now own,

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are available to fill the gap.

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But actually sizing heating systems appropriately seemingly never happens.

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The HVAC industry is currently stuck in a habit
where they build tremendous amounts of margin into a home’s heating system.

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To be fair to them, there are some good reasons to do that:

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when you only have a single source of heat,
then when the weather hits design temps,

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a properly-sized heating system will take a long time to increase the temperature if, say, you’re like me and like to turn the heat down a bit at night.

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But the main reason they’re always going so overboard is that…

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that's easy.

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Particularly when you have gas at your disposal,

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you can just use simple rules of thumb such as a home’s footprint
and number of floors to pick out a furnace -

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then choose the next size up, just in case.

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I can all but guarantee that’s how my home
ended up with such an oversized heating system.

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But this habit needs to die.

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We’re not gonna be heating our homes with gas forever.

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Pick whatever reason you’d like, there are plenty!

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Heat pumps are in the news so much these days
because they allow us to capture ambient heat energy from outside,

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concentrate it, and move it inside.

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That process is so efficient

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that we can end up with 3 or sometimes even 4 times as much energy
inside our homes than we spend running the heat pump to collect it.

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That is why they are such a big deal - it’s a way we can get more heat
with less energy expenditure,

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and doing more with less is always a good idea.

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For that reason alone, more and more people
will be using heat pumps as their primary or possibly only source of heat.

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They just make way too much sense to not use.

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And when speccing a heat pump system,

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actually installing the correct equipment
with the correct capacity is very important!

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More than it’s ever been.

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There are a whole bunch of reasons that this is the case.

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For one, heat pumps are electric sources of heating and cooling,

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so larger systems require more electrical capacity to run them.

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Therefore, concluding that you need a bigger heat pump
than you actually do

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can come with a whole host of potential headaches
including the need to upsize circuits or potentially even get a service upgrade.

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So you absolutely don’t want to go overboard.

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Plus, if you want a backup generator or even
a whole home battery system which are getting more and more popular,

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bigger heat pumps will need bigger generators,
batteries, transfer switches, and all that jazz.

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Having more than you need can be a legitimate problem.

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Plus, I keep running across folks who have been told by HVAC contractors

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that their home’s current ductwork isn’t big enough to have a heat pump.

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Maybe that’s true, but if that contractor hasn’t done a load calculation or any sort of sanity check on whether the home’s current heating system is actually appropriate,

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then the contractor simply doesn’t have enough information
to be making that conclusion.

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Those ducts may be perfectly fine
for the heat pump that’s actually appropriate for that home.

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Additionally, and this is something that everyone in the industry should know very well,

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oversizing a heat pump can lead to nasty moisture problems
in the summer months:

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if you have too much cooling capacity, the heat pump might short-cycle

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and that means it won’t run long enough to actually dehumidify the air.

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What I personally think the industry
needs to get more comfortable with - quickly - is that

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secondary heat sources will become
much more common as we transition to heat pumps.

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And those are going to function as the margin
that traditionally gets figured into gas-fired systems.

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I mentioned backup heat strips previously -
 those are just old-fashioned heating elements

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(not unlike the wire elements in these space heaters)

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that get tucked into the air handler to provide additional heat.

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They are often referred to as auxiliary heat or emergency heat.

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And both of those terms are apt:

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the heat strips provide an emergency backup in case the heat pump fails,

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but if the heat pump is working, they can work alongside it
to boost the total system output when required.

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If configured correctly,

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then when the temperatures are approaching design conditions
and the heat pump is only barely adequate,

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the thermostat can command the heat strips
to work alongside the heat pump

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to perhaps double the system output
and quickly raise the indoor temperature when requested.

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And even if the temperature dips below design conditions,
meaning the heat pump is no longer sufficient on its own,

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modern cold-climate heat pumps don’t just stop pumping.

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They’ll keep on working well into the negative temperatures.

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They probably won't be putting out much heat, but it will be something - 
so the heat strips won’t be working alone.

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In other words, there is still a margin - it just looks a little different now.

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So to recap - first of all, heat pumps are not magic machines!

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Don't let anyone convince you they're revolutionary technology,

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they’re just reversible air conditioners and they should only cost marginally more 
than a conventional heating and cooling system to purchase and install,

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with the only major potential hiccup
being provisions for backup heating if necessary.

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If you’re getting a $20,000 quote for a central heat pump,

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ask why on Earth it’s so high and what sort of equipment they’ll be installing.

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Then poke around on those wholesale sites
to see if their bid makes any sense at all

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or if they’re just playing amateur economist
and testing to see just how far they can push what the market will bear.

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For those of you that don't have central heating systems,
ductless mini-splits are gonna be great options

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but they are going to be more expensive because they involve more work.

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Still, though, the equipment itself isn’t very expensive

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and the work isn’t really that involved

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(I’ve done it myself and I’m just some schmuck on the Internet)

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so… shop around.

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Second, nobody should ever be sizing replacement equipment 
based on what is currently installed.

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Depressingly often, what’s there now is oversized up the wazoo
and blatantly inappropriate for that home -

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especially when a home is on its fourth or fifth system.

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Imagine how out of control it can get when
each installer keeps jumping to the next size

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just in case.

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There are many, many ways to do a sanity check
on that equipment but it rarely ever happens.

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Just this past Spring my parents got a cold climate heat pump

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and the sales rep who came out somehow figured
they’d need a 5-ton heat pump based on, as far as I can tell,

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nothing but a guess and maybe the output of their old system.

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But had that rep looked at the data from Nest,

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he would have seen that their old system
had never run for more than 12 hours in a day

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so it was about double oversized and a three-ton heat pump
(the same size as their existing air conditioner) would be sufficient.

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Luckily I was there for this process, showed him that data,
and he listened to me.

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And sure enough, their 3-ton heat pump is working just fine

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and the heat strips were only required once this winter,
and for just a few hours at that.

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If you’ve got a smart thermostat,

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the historical data it provides can be tremendously useful.

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HVAC professionals really oughta be looking at that data (when it's available),

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And when it's not, they need to be doing proper load calculations!

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That needs to be wayyyy more common than it is right now, and somebody

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00:24:43,254 --> 00:24:48,184
(perhaps even the Air Conditioning Contractors of America,
the publishers of Manual J)

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00:24:48,184 --> 00:24:53,521
should really build a guided tool to help professionals do this quickly.

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Bottom line, the tactics of yesterday are no longer appropriate.

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Everything is changing so habits need to, as well.

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Frankly, if you are in the HVAC business,
you could really differentiate yourself from your competitors by

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1) actually investigating the performance of the equipment that’s already there to see if it’s correct, perhaps by looking at thermostat data if available,

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2) performing even just basic load calculations
to check that you’re somewhere in the ballpark,

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3) educating your customers on how heat pump systems work

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and how the heat strips help to fill in any gaps and, most importantly,

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4) charging honest prices for heat pumps which will, get this,

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cause you to win all the bids!

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Honestly this industry is ripe for disruption,
and it doesn’t need to come from outside.

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One of you just needs to wake up and smell the roses.

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Change is scary, and difficult!

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00:25:51,817 --> 00:25:56,360
But one of the great things about heat pumps
(and electric technologies in general)

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is that they are incredibly flexible.

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It’s not just fire in a box with air blowing through it,

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it’s a modular toolkit which can be configured in many ways and tailored to any home.

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00:26:08,598 --> 00:26:11,577
And they’re only gonna get better and better as time goes on!

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Already they are appropriate in climates like
mine which was unheard of not that many years ago.

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So why not learn some new tricks?

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Isn’t that what makes life fun?

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Thanks for watching, and more pumping more now!

